I was a wallpaper neophyte a short time ago. Even though I jump into almost every DIY with both feet, eager and willing to try anything, the wallpaper just didn't appeal to me. Interior designers in gurgaon mixing the dough, matching the pattern, not covering the light switch, it all seemed so stressful. However, when I decided that I wanted to wallpaper my bathroom, that was enough, I had to put in the effort and learn how to do it. Turns out it wasn't as bad or as stressful as I expected after all! Since then I've done some more wallpapering and learned what you need to do and where you can cut corners, so to speak.
If you Googled "how to wallpaper" and landed here, the purpose of this article is to give you the easiest, least stressful, or least confusing version of how you can wallpaper your wall while giving it a decent look. . If money is too tight for a decorator, if you've ever wasted money on designer wallpaper, or if you just like to do it yourself without having to make multiple cups of tea to be overcharged by a dealer For your time, then this is my simple guide to what you need and how to overcome potential wallpaper challenges.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
The essentials you will need for wallpapering are:
Wallpaper (obviously), but sufficient. To make sure you buy enough wallpaper, measure the width and height of all your walls, then use a wallpaper calculator (which you can find online or download as an app). Your wallpaper sites will have all the details about it, including the pattern repeat (the measurement that tells you how far from the roll the pattern will match again) on the seller's website, on the back of the sample that you ordered (or on the label on the roll if you already have one). You will need these details to calculate the number of rolls you will need. The wallpaper used in this article is called 'Sumi' by Harlequin and you can buy it here.
Wallpaper paste. Don't bother mixing your own: use ready-to-use wallpaper paste that comes in a resealable jar to save you time and waste if you need to wallpaper in stages.
Wallpaper paste. Don't bother mixing your own: use ready-to-use wallpaper paste that comes in a resealable jar to save you time and waste if you need to wallpaper in stages.
Wallpaper application brush. Choose one with a handle in the middle instead of ones that look like large combs. These are easier to fit into the pre-made pasta bins, and your dolls will thank you.
A plumb line measuring tool. You can buy them at DIY stores and they are a great investment if you plan to put up a lot of wallpaper. However, if what you are doing is a simple feature wall, you can get a plumb measurer app on your smartphone for free.
A sharp knife for cutting wallpaper or a pressure knife and a pair of scissors. Using a knife is easier, but scissors are best for pieces of wallpaper that won't cut because they're soaked in glue. You will also need scissors to cut the paper from the roll.
Tape measure and pencil.
A few clean rags to smooth the wallpaper on the wall.
A wallpapering table (it's around £10 in DIY stores)
PREPARATION WORK:
Make sure all of your walls are clean, dry, and free of dirt and cobwebs. If there are any "problem areas" such as moisture, be sure to address these issues before wallpapering.
Remove any nails, hooks or screws with pliers. Fill large holes with filler (you can get cheap pre-mixed tubes from the DIY store) and sand the holes before applying the wallpaper so it doesn't cause bulging under the tape.
GETTING STARTED:
Pick an "easy" area of the wall (that has no light switches or outlets) to start with. If possible, start with an area that is less visible when finished (if a piece of furniture passes in front, for example). That way, if your first one or two strips of wallpaper have a few errors as you enter your "wallpaper slot", it's not the end of the world.
Measure the length of the wall to be wallpapered, then add approximately 20cm to the measurement (taking into account the top and bottom to account for crooked walls or inaccurate measurements). Interior designers in gurgaon unroll the paper on the pasting table, then using a tape measure and a pencil make a mark on the back of the paper where it needs to be cut. Fold the paper over itself making sure it is flush with the edges and cut the first strip.
Using your plumb tool or fixture, draw a straight vertical line on the wall, close enough to the edge of your first strip, but not covered by your first roll of paper. Use this marked vertical line as your main guide when applying the paper to make sure you place the first roll straight. Don't be fooled by door frames, ceiling, or baseboards, as most of the time they will be at a slight angle!
APPLYING YOUR FIRST STRIP:
Now that you have your first piece cut out and your plumb drawn, it's time to apply it to the wall. La regla del papel tapiz siempre ha sido que pegas la pared y pegas el papel, pero realmente no entiendo por que. himself. Instead, I just give the wall a generous coat of glue (first place a roller against the wall and mark the distance along the wall to glue), then just stick a small piece of paper in the top corners to make it easy to put on. first
Apply your strip to the top of the wall, then smooth it gently in fluid motions with your clean cloth. Smooth from the middle of the paper to the edges. If it doesn't work perfectly, don't worry, take a breath, gently peel it off, then reapply. Remember to use smooth strokes so as not to crease the paper. Once you think everything is fine, use your rag to smooth the edges.
Again, using your fabric, push your paper up until it enters the crack where the paper meets the ceiling and the baseboard, creating a faint line that will serve as a mark for where you will cut the surplus.
CUTTING AWAY THE EXCESS PAPER:
You can cut freehand along the notch line or stick a straightedge into the crack and cut along it. Or, if you find the knife tricky, pull the paper away from the wall slightly and cut the jagged line with a pair of scissors. All three options work well, but take your time and be patient with this part of the wallpaper. Chances are you're cutting too much paper (if this happens, scroll down for my quick fix!)
THE SECOND STRIP - MATCHING UP THE PATTERN:
The second strip is more difficult than the first, since you can't measure and glue it, you have to match the pattern. Depending on the type of wallpaper pattern you have chosen, it can be easy or a bit complicated. Patterns with a large repeat drop mean you can get a lot of scrap.
Take the roll and slowly roll it out against your first strip until you can see where the pattern meets. if there's a lot of scrap paper on top, make a mark so you can cut away what you won't need. Make sure your second strip takes into account the length of the wall, the excess at the top of the roll, then also your extra 10cm allowance at the bottom.
By applying this second strip, you are totally focused on matching the pattern, as well as finding the edge of the first strip. Don't let your papers overlap, as this will cause the pattern to fail and your paper will appear to be "lifted" against the wall.
Position the edge of your papers so they meet, then gently slide the paper up and down until the pattern comes together. Once this is complete, gently rub the paper down, away from the edge corresponding to the fabric.
HOW TO MAKE CORNERS:
The trick with corners is to first focus on the wall in your hand, then focus on moving the second part of the paper to the next wall. Gather your border and design as before, then gently rub your fabric over the paper in the corner. Don't put too much pressure on the top and bottom corners at first, as you don't want the paper to wrinkle.
Once you are satisfied that your paper is flush with the previous strip and meets the corner, gently lay the paper down on the second wall. Using your scissors, make an incision in the paper at the top where the corners meet the ceiling. This will help you fold the paper on the second wall.
Make another cut at the bottom of the strip where the paper meets at the corner of the baseboard, then focus on smoothing the paper over the wall from the corner to the edge. Make sure the paper hasn't peeled off the previous strip. If so, gently lift it, gather it, then smooth it against the wall.
HOW TO DO DIFFICULT AREAS:
The biggest pain when wallpapering is those pesky switches and outlets. Hang the strip of wallpaper as before, but don't smooth it too much. Feel where your socket or switch rests under the paper, then at the most central point make a small hole with your scissors. Carefully cut the paper, working from the center of the socket out to the edges, until you can press it against the wall and the socket or switch is fully exposed. Using your cloth, gently smooth the paper around the edges of the socket/switch, then make the final cuts with your cutting knife. Smooth the rest of the strip towards the switch/outlet.
HOW TO FIX COMMON MISTAKES:
Ok, you will make mistakes, but don't panic. These errors can often be easily corrected. Even if you think they look bad at the moment, chances are no one will notice them (and neither will you after a day or two).
The most annoying and common mistake I make is accidentally cutting too much paper when cutting off the excess. Don't worry, just go back to the strip you cut, re-glue it, then cut again. Try to respect the cutting line as much as possible and avoid overlaps. Put some paste on your finger and rub it on the joint. It will be much less noticeable once the paste dries, honestly!
Air bubbles are actually avoided by smoothing the paper with the cloth. If the paper has a lot of bubbles, gently peel it off the wall without removing it completely, then smooth the bubbles towards the edge of the paper. Interior designers in gurgaon you may think your paper looks sparkling even though you smoothed it out as best you could. It will most likely dry well since pulp or paper is designed to stretch when dry.
Chipped edges are a sign that there is not enough paste on the edges of the paper. Put some paste on the tip of your finger, gently lift the edge, then run your finger up and down the edge of the paper. Smooth the paper again with your cloth.
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